Trip Reports - Manu, Abra Malaga and sites near Lima
Trip ReportManu, Abra Malaga, coast, St. Eulalia and Marcapomacocha
Nov. 17th – Dec. 7th, 2003
by Wim ten Have
Introduction
This is a report of an organised and guided tour in Peru, made with two
Dutch birdwatchers Tom Kompier and Hein Masseling. The knowledge of the
bird guide Wim ten Have together with the active search for birds of the
customers Hein and Tom made it possible to find 668 bird species in 19
days.
Besides the tour organised by Tanager Tours the customers did Machu Picchu
on theirselves and did Lomas de Lachay with a driver of Tanager Tours,
but without guide. The trip total including these parts ended around 690.
Of these around 40 species are not observed by all.
Brief daily log (also itinerary)
Nov. 16: flight Lima-Cusco, birding the area of Sacsayhumanan above Cusco
Nov. 17: start of the organised Manu tour at 6 a.m., visiting the lake
of Huacarpay between 6.30 and 9:00. Driving to Paucartambo and on the
the Acjanaco pass, arriving there at 13.00. Birding the highest part
of the Manu Road: Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan was the best species.
Whole afternoon birding and driving the 50 km to the Cock-of-the-Rock,
arriving there around 19:00
Nov. 18: birding the area around the lodge (1500 m.a.s.l.) and killing
(by accidence) a Chicotillo (kind of rattle snake): Tom stepped on the
snake, that was lying on the road.
The people were especially happy with good views of a Solitary Eagle, Booted
Rackettail, Crested Quetzal in the morning. A good flock of tanagers and
ovenbirds just after midday. Driver Juve saw the bird of the day: a pair
of Black-and-white Becard (2nd observation for Manu).
Nov. 19: by car higher up to bird the area around 2000 m.a.s.l. near Rocotal. Very good views of 2 Black-and-chestnut Eagles. A second dead Chicotillo on the road, this time a pregnant one. In the afternoon again near the Cock-lodge where we encountered good activity the day before. Now everyone saw all the flock species , including the becard.
Nov. 20: leaving the lodge early and going down till the first big patch of bamboo. Big surprises: an Umbrellabird –probably a young one- stayed perched for at least 5 minutes and 2 Blue-headed Macaws gave an excellent display. Despite the time of the day we found Black-backed Tody-Flycatcher soon, it was nesting in the area called Quitecalzones Around midday arriving at Atalaya for a short boat drive to Amazonia Lodge. In the afternoon to an area with mostly dead trees (after have been flooded last year) and for that reason an easy-to-see-birds spot.
Nov. 21: doing the trails nearby the lodge and the small oxbow-lake we
encountered a lot of new birds, the best ones were Fine-barred Piculet,
Plain Softtail and Amazonian Antpitta (great looks). In the garden we enjoyed
the ever-present hummingbirds and 3 Chestnut-eared Aracari´s predating
a nest youngs of Silver-beaked Tanager.
In the afternoon to the tower halfway the hillside. There was bird activity,
but the best activity came from sweat bees and they urged us to go down
soon.
Nov. 22: Tom and Hein saw a tapir in the small oxbow lake. After the morning
birding at Amazonia lodge going downstream to Pantiacolla lodge (2 hour
boat drive)
Nov 23- 27: a long stay at Pantiacolla lodge, for the customers important to get grip on the difficult rainforest birding including to learn their songs. We discovered 4 new species for the lodge list: Amaz.Umbrellabird, Sulfur-bellied Tyrant-manakin, Sungrebe and Olive Finch, we saw different species only seen once before and interesting for the customers we saw a lot of special birds that are not uncommon for this lodge like Trumpeters and all the bamboo specialties. Besides 6 species of monkeys, twice a big herd of White-lipped Peccary and a Tamandua With 241 species observed in 5.5 days for Wim-the guide- one of his most productive visits.
Nov.28: Back to Atalaya, this time a 4 hour boat drive upstream the Madre-de-Dios
river.
The afternoon birding the Manu-road around 2200 m. and camping near Pillahuata.
Nov. 29: after a whole morning birding above Pillahuata, back in the direction
of Cusco. Our intention to go from Paucartambo directly to Ollantaytambo
failed for the lack of petrol
(a strike elsewhere avoided the transport of fuel in this area). This day
turned out to be a bad day (happily the only one during the trip): for
the lack of fuel we had to go to Cusco (a delay) and thieves were able
to steal 2 telescopes from our watched car. We arrived late in our hotel
in Ollantaytambo.
Nov. 30: up to the Abra Malaga pass, visiting the Peña Ruins our
the way. Not lucky with the weather at the pass, the heavy fog made it
impossible to bird the polylepis area today.
On the other side of the pass down till San Luis restaurant where we slept.
Normally an awful place to sleep, but this night we slept very well because
there was no police control (for coca) and the cars didn´t have to
stop at night there like usually.
Dec. 1: back to the pass after some birding on our way up. This time excellent weather and we saw all the specialties including 2 or 3 Royal Cinclodes. In the afternoon we dropped Tom and Hein in Ollantaytambo where they catched the evening train to Agua Calientes
Dec. 2 : the customers birded the area between Agua Calientes and the ruins of Machu Picchu on theirselves, late in the afternoon returning to Cusco by train.
Dec. 3 : we flew to Lima, where Juve our driver was already waiting us
at the airport. Visiting Pantanos de Villa, south of Lima and going on
to Pucusana for Surf Cinclodes, Red-legged Cormorant and Per.Penguin. Going
further south till Puerto Viejo where we took our time for the birds of
the lake, the desert-scrub and agricultural area.
Drive back to Lima and continuing on the Central Highway till Santa Eulalia,
where we had our overnight at a hostal
Dec. 4: Up to the valley 1.5 hours driving from St.Eulalia where we met all the special birds of this area. At midday further up in the direction of Milloc. Camping at the site of White-cheeked Cotinga, our target bird for the next morning. Whole afternoon raining so difficult birding.
Dec. 5: Finding only 1 Cotinga, but a lot of other good birds too. Going
on to Marcapomacocha and in the afternoon back to Lima
Dec. 6: Pelagic trip, guided by Gunnar Engblom of Kolibri Expeditions.
Less species than for instance usual in July-October, but excellent views
of 2 Blue Whales.
Dec. 7.: day trip to Lomas de Lachay and Ventanilla before flying out to
the Netherlands.
Species list
The columns:
MRd = Cusco (lake Huacarcay) and the Manu road
Amaz = Amazonia lodge
Pant = Pantiacolla lodge
AMal = Abra Malaga, including the Peña ruins on
the dry site, the polylepis on the top and the wet site till San Luis restaurant
Coast = coastal area near Lima, pelagic trip (p),
Lomas de Lachay (la)
EuMa = Santa Eulalia (eu), Milloc (mi),
Marcapomacochas (ma) and birds of Machu Picchu (mp)
not seen at other places.
h = heard only
x = seen
Click
here to see the complete Species list
The list contains nearly 700 species, so it takes some time to load the
list..
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